View all vintages of Rivers-Marie Chardonnay

Chardonnay

Small but growing, the Chardonnay program includes two single vineyard designates (B. Thieriot & Joy Road) and a Sonoma Coast appellation bottling.

Anchored by the B. Thieriot Vineyard (2007) in Occidental, the Chardonnay program has grown to include Joy Road Vineyard (SVD,2013) & Sonoma Coast (AVA, Riddle Vineyard & Lucky Well Vineyard).
125 Cases

2014 Rivers-Marie B. Thieriot Vineyard Chardonnay

14.2% alcohol per volume

This is more green/gold than the pure gold complexion of the 2013.  We always feel this is a good indicator of preserved potential in Chardonnay.  This edition doesn’t have the initial palate impact of the 2013 but the trade off here is more cut and delineation of both flavors and aromatics.  Nothing here is muddled and the palate builds from the front to a swelling of citrus and mineral notes in the back.  This wine also has that weight minus heaviness that we mentioned last year.  It begs for an additional taste but those tastes don’t tire the palate.  The finish might be the most interesting element of the wine where the fruit moves into a stone fruit area framed by all the racy acidity of the vintage.

190 Cases

2014 Rivers-Marie Joy Road Chardonnay

13.8% alcohol per volume

We continue to be pleased with this fruit from Terry Adams’ small Occidental plot. At only a third of an acre but very tightly spaced the dense canopy allows for true ripening of the fruit given the low per plant crop load and some shading from neighboring rows.  All the acidity possible is preserved at harvest time and that’s the first sensation that greets you on the palate.  Green/gold in complexion, the nose is always very effusive showing notes of brioche from the oak and some varietal character of cut hay, white chocolate and tart citrus fruit.  This wine we feel always holds more of its potential in reserve so the palate is subtle.  The acidity that makes this vintage so great frames the finish and will also allow this wine to age gracefully for some time.

225 Cases

2014 Rivers-Marie Sonoma Coast Chardonnay

14.4% alcohol per volume

Made up of Wente clone from the Lucky Well Vineyard and Riddle Ranch, the green-gold complexion is the first sign of the healthiest of the fruit in 2014.  The aromatics are focused on classic Chardonnay notes of lychee, hazelnuts, and smoke.  Like all the wines, there’s great concentration without overt heaviness.  The palate turns more soil driven featuring chalk and gunflint complemented by the full spectrum of citrus fruits.

280 Cases

2013 Rivers-Marie B. Thieriot Vineyard Chardonnay

14.2% alcohol per volume

This is a little more golden than its Joy Road sibling but features the same purity of flavor and focus.  One of the trademarks of this vineyard we’ve discovered through the years is its ability to produce weighty wines that aren’t heavy.  We make the same comment about the Summa Old Vines Pinot Noir offering every year and so we partly attribute this in the Thieriot to vine age as well.  Though this would never be confused with a more heavy style of California Chardonnay, it is a bit more classic in character than the Joy Road bottling.  This is more about generosity and features elements of brioche, hazelnuts, smoke and marzipan complemented by a bit of citrus zest.  This is already a broad, deep wine but I imagine it will only continue to add dimension as it ages.  This is one of those wines you debate selling wondering if you’d be better served to hoard and drink it all yourself.

160 Cases

2013 Rivers-Marie Joy Road Chardonnay

13.8% alcohol per volume

The Chardonnay program for us continues to expand.  We started with this small piece owned by Terry Adams in 2012 and we wanted a year to work with it before breaking it out on its own.  This wine has more cut then any wine we have ever released.  Green/gold in color with a super effusive nose, the fruit here is far more citrus than tropical.  The palate is piercing with notes of cut hay, white chocolate, lychee and lime zest.  This one may take a little while to come around but the laser focus and freshness of the palate makes it intriguing now.

300 Cases

2013 Rivers-Marie Sonoma Coast Chardonnay

14.0% alcohol per volume

It’s odd to say but ultimately the greatness of this vintage might be best defined by the Chardonnays it produced.  This is our “starter” white but it certainly doesn’t taste that way.  Comprised of Lucky Well, Martinelli Road and declassified Thieriot Vineyard barrels, it’s a very clean, laser focused example showcasing what Sonoma Coast does best.  The lack of weather drama in 2013 produced clean fruit that allowed primary fermentations to complete in record time.  The bone dryness complements the smoke, hazelnut and marzipan palate well.  The complexity continues with notes of citrus skin, minerals, saline and a little white chocolate.  The 10% new oak and no lees stirring allows the brilliance of the fruit in this vintage to shine through in the finished wine.

350 Cases

2012 Rivers-Marie B. Thieriot Vineyard Chardonnay

13.8% alcohol per volume

Vintages like this confirm why we love this vineyard and reaffirm our decision to make it the flagship of our Chardonnay program.  2012 was the first year we were able to call the pick when we thought the vineyard was truly ready instead of having our hand forced by inclement weather.  Because of this we brought in the cleanest, healthiest looking fruit we had ever seen from this site.  The normal bracing acid is here but there’s a completeness to this wine at a much earlier stage than we’ve ever experienced before. 

Being a huge white Burgundy fan, I’ve always marveled at how those wines balance delineation with a pleasing roundness that makes the wines so complex and versatile.  This is the first year we feel we have achieved something close to that.  We press direct to barrel, both primary and malolactic fermentations are 100% native, the barrels aren’t stirred and the wine sees no sulfur until after it completes secondary fermentation.  The winemaking hasn’t changed, so we are happy to give the credit to the vineyard and vintage. 

260 Cases

2012 Rivers-Marie Sonoma Coast Chardonnay

13.8% alcohol per volume

The Chardonnay program is finally expanding.  In 2012, we sought out a few new sites around the Occidental area to try out and to act as a hedge against the extreme weather we had experienced the last several years at Thieriot.  From those efforts, two most promising new sites make up this first ever Sonoma Coast appellation offering, Joy Road Vineyard and Lucky Well Vineyard. 

Joy Road is owned by Terry Adams (a Chardonnay legend himself) and sits only about a half mile from our estate Summa site.  It’s a tiny plot, very densely planted and meticulously maintained.  Given the cool site, it’s all about cut and tension featuring high toned citrus notes, fruit zest and a nice stony minerality. 

Our block at Ulises Valdez’s Lucky Well site is planted to an old Wente clone.  Like Joy Road, location here is what contributes most to the finished attributes of the wine.  It’s a bit warmer so the wine features rounder, more generous fruit notes.  The fruit spectrum is still more citrus then tropical but notes of brioche, fresh cream and pear creep in at the end to provide richness.  The combination of the two sites works well in the finished blend offering a wine to drink now and a nice QPR companion to the Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir bottling.

185 Cases

2011 Rivers-Marie B. Thieriot Vineyard Chardonnay

14.2% alcohol per volume

This once again was the last thing we harvested for the vintage.  Given the weather it required more sorting than we had ever done before.  We probably culled out 15% of the pick for botrytis concerns.  The palate though shows that we couldn’t get it all out.  There’s a honeyed character to the wine that we’ve tasted in some higher end white Burgundies that we like.  It’s a nice balance to the 3.2 finished pH the wine possesses.  This is the only 2011 that is actually denser than its 2010 version.  That wine needs a ton of time still where the ’11 seems pretty open knit now.  It is citrus fruit focused as always but with a little more brioche and hazelnut than years past.  We cut back once again on the new wood component to allow more vineyard expression in this wine.

180 Cases

2010 Rivers-Marie B. Thieriot Vineyard Chardonnay

13.4% alcohol per volume

Of course the year we double the vine acreage we buy yields are tiny. This was our last piece to harvest in 2010 and until the heat in late September hit, we weren’t so sure it was going to come in. Pressing out at 3.14 pH and 10 grams of acidity it’s a bit of an understatement to say the wine has nice cut. As touched on previously, we feel we do a better job of making this wine every year. This might be the first year where all the potential we saw in the raw material is realized in the finished product. Once again we treated every barrel as an individual wine carefully monitoring both primary and malo completion in every lot. As in the past, there was no inoculation for either fermentation and no lees stirring. For the first time we bottled this wine at the same time as the Pinots to capture as much freshness and primary character as we could. The nose on this wine is more expressive currently than any of the Pinots. It’s heavy on hazelnuts, lemon meringue, lime/lemon zest, lanolin, brioche and white chocolate. Now that we are four years in it’s hard to find original things to say about this site/wine but I can say without reservation it’s a wine we love to drink.

116 Cases

2009 Rivers-Marie B. Thieriot Chardonnay

13.9% alcohol per volume

Some day we will make more of this.  Once again we’ve bottled 5 barrels of Chardonnay and given the following, we expect it to go quickly.  Like the 2007 and 2008, it’s the cut in this wine that we like the most.  There’s plenty of richness to go around but the acid spine is what sets the wine apart from most other California Chardonnays.  The notes across the three vintages are similar:  lanolin, lemon meringue, lime blossom, hazelnuts and a hint of white chocolate on the finish.  This might be the most accessible of the three vintages given our gradual reduction in the percentage of new oak.  Regardless we like the precision the acid lends to the wine now knowing it will only improve and broaden over time.

126 Cases

2008 Rivers-Marie B. Thieriot Vineyard Chardonnay

13.5% alcohol per volume

Without talking overall quality, we simply did a better job of making this wine in 2008. The raw material and potential quality of the two vintages was very similar. Though instead of treating the 2008 as one lot, we monitored every barrel as individual wines to make sure we could track fermentation completion as it happened. In hindsight I believe our lack of this approach for the 2007 allowed too much of that wine to sit unsulfured for way too long. The 2008 has a strong acid spine and features a more green-gold color and a freshness to the palate that the 2007 is missing. Otherwise the notes are very similar between the two vintages: lime blossoms, Meyer lemon, wet stones, lightly toasted hazelnuts and a hint of white chocolate at the end. There is more persistence to the finish of this wine than any other wine we’ve ever made. The 2007 seemed like a wine that would require patience, the 2008 definitely will.

120 Cases

2007 Rivers-Marie B. Thieriot Vineyard Chardonnay

13.9% alcohol per volume

3.18 finished pH. I keep writing that down to become more comfortable with it. We can’t say this is a dead ringer for white Burgundy but we’ve heard the comparisons from the dozen or so folks who’ve tasted it. It has liquid mineral, honeyed, lime zest, brioche and white chocolate qualities that suggest it might not be from California until the power of the wine takes over in the finish. The nose can go from fully open to reticent very quickly suggesting it will need some time in bottle to settle down. It was fermented in 100% new wood to tame the acidity and it is barely evident in the wine. The wine was finished in stainless for 2 months after 10 months in oak and bottled without fining or filtration. Because of the pH, malo did not finish until August of last year so the wine was allowed extra time to development as a complete wine compared to the Pinots. We are extremely excited to be making Chardonnay from this illustrious vineyard located directly across the street from Summa.